Are you curious about what happens at an ani & ari when there is a corset fitting? Here is a peak at the behind the scenes at our atelier.
Our client Tarah, came by today for her fitting appointment to be measured for her custom corset. She will be attending a Christmas gala this December in New York City and she is looking to create a corset that will be memorable! She was inspired by all the corsets that she has seen on the runways of Europe for Spring. We are psyched to have her choose ani&ari to make her a new custom piece. We took pictures during the fitting to give you all more of an idea of how the whole design process works! Check out how easy it is to be measured. After we measure Tarah we will sit down and talk about what she is inspired by and the types of fabrics and the notions that will fit her vision for her corset. She loves Alexander Wang so we are thinking there may be some leather involved check back to see what Tarah’s corset came out like.
The lovely Tarah, ready to be measured!
Under the arm is one of the most important measurements!
Thanks for stopping by! Check back for more inside the studio, and stay tuned for Tarah’s amazing new corset coming soon!!!
Exciting news from our atelier – we designed the custom corsets worn by Miranda Lambert and The Pistol Annie’s at their CMA Music Festival performance at LP Field. The show, Country’s Night To Rock, was taped in June but airs tonight on ABC!
Miranda’s corset was a challenge because of its custom cap sleeve, something we’ve never attempted before and she ended up loving.
Our sleeve innovation started with this simple bra cup that we turned into a structured shoulder pad. We then attached a custom made leather strap that is detachable from the corset.
For the next step was to cover the shoulder pad with the stretched black lambs leather. Guess what we used? Rubber cement a trick we learned from watching our dad make saddles for cowboys in our basement – Thanks Dad!
Once the sleeves were covered in leather and sewn together we hand stitched two rows of chains around the rim of the shoulder pad. We spent extra time carefully measuring the chains to get the asymmetrical flattering look.
Voila!!! They turned out so cool and Miranda looked amazing in them!
Exciting news at the studio; we were contacted by Susie DeSanto from the wardrobe department of the hot new ABC show “Nashville” to create a custom corset for one of their stars Hayden Panettiere. If you haven’t heard about “Nashville” then you must be living on another planet, because it’s the most talked about new show for the fall. The show stars Connie Britton as a country singer juggling her home life and struggling to remain a relevant country star. Meanwhile Hayden’s character is taking over the country music industry. It’s going to be amazing and we’re so excited to watch!
We are over the moon to be part of the show because the producers have made a huge effort to portray Nashville in an authentic light. Our studio has created custom corsets for Miranda Lambert, The Pistol Annies, and Carrie Underwood thus it would be perfect for Hayden’s country Music Star character to rock an authentic custom ani&ari corset.
Hayden and Wardrobe Stylist, Susie DeSanto both loved these shorts, so we came up with a design that highlighted all the special aspects of these minis. We went with the same white denim and camel colored topstitching. Then we embellished the cups with an array of multi colored rim set jewels. Can you believe we only had 5 days? Our first fitting was via the telephone, but in the end the corset was PERFECTION. We missed the taping, but pictures are beginning to surface and we couldn’t be happier with how she looks!
Woahhhh! Things have been crazy here at ani&ari. We recently went to LA and had our first official photo shoot. We had an amazing team, and we are SO excited to share the photos with you. Until then, here are a few behind the scene pics. Enjoy 😉
Behind the scenes pictures taken by
Danielle and Ariel Tredway
Photographer: Sye Williams
Styling by: ANNIE+MELA
Hair: Clark Ivor
Make up: Melissa Tolentino
Art Director: Denise López
Models/ LA Models
One of our favorite parts of finishing a corset, is embellishing the busk and grommets. When we want something other than silver (which is the way the come) we get a little creative with combinations of nail polish…
Our plain grommets (left and right) and a simple busk (center)
We used a white polish by Essie for the base coat of the busk, then covered the top in an OPI sparkle. The grommets are covered in an OPI blue sparkle.
For this fabulous pink linen, we chose to paint our black grommets with a matching pink sparkle by Sally Hansen.
Be sure and check back for more peeks inside ani&ari!!! We’ve only just begun 😉
Boning is a key component in making a foundation for a corset. It gives the fabric structure and creates the shape that hugs the curves of the body.
Throughout history corset makers have used many different types of boning. Each one has unique benefits and challenges.
Baleen or also known as whalebone comes from the filter-like structure in the mouths of Baleen whales. During the 18th and 19th century it was used for constructing corsets, in collar stiffeners, as parasol ribs, and even buggy whips. Another material used for boning in the early days of corsetry was Coraline. It was made from the straight, stiff fibers from the Mexican ixtle plant, bound together by two strands of thread wrapped in opposite directions.
Featherbone was another alternative to baleen, and was made from the quills of feathers
In more recent corsetry there has been a transition to using steel and plastic. These are more humane options and easier to work with.
At ani&ari we prefer to use a combination of steel and plastic boning. The steel boning is either a half-inch or quarter inch wide flat piece of powder-coated metal. It is also rust free, which allows it to be washed or dry-cleaned. It offers the most strength and structure in a custom corset.
You can also use two types of plastic boning. You can buy individual lengths, like the steel pieces or you can use the rigilene, which is a woven plastic boning that comes by the spool. The regilene is used in lightweight, looser fitting garments. You have probably seen rigeline in your own gowns and structured dresses.
Boning is a corset makers best friend! Hope you enjoyed your glimpse into the ani&ari studio. Until next time!!
One thing that is unique about our corset company is that we make a new pattern for each customer. Once you see what goes into making a pattern, you will understand why this is such a big deal. It is rarely done anymore, because it is so difficult and time consuming. Most designers are not draping their own patterns. They hire a pattern maker, or send their sketched designs to a foreign country. This is not necessarily a bad thing, and some of the world’s top couture designers do it. We chose a different path here at ani&ari because we value the traditional methods of the design process.
There is no simple way to describe making a pattern, but we are going to do our best to share our process.
You begin to make a pattern by creating an outline of the shape of the desired garment. For this blog, we will be making a new underbust pattern.
I won’t go too much in detail about this, but it is important to know that there are reasons for multiple pattern pieces. You cannot just take one piece of fabric and wrap it around the body and expect it to fit. Pattern making is truly an art, in the sense that you must sculpt the fabric around the body in a way that’s comfortable, flattering, and beautiful. It is a skill that some people just don’t have, and luckily Danielle is an expert.
Once you have figured out the shape, the next step is transferring it to fabric. Muslin is a thin and inexpensive cotton fabric used for draping and pattern making by designers. Before you make any garment you must get the fabric on grain. Properly aligned grain is the key to a well-made garment. You probably know more about grain than you think. Have you ever tried on a cheap T-shirt and had the side seams twist around your body? Or after one wash it magically has taken a new shape? That is the result of fabric being off grain. You want the grain, or weave of the fabric, to be straight, even and square. This takes a lot of stretching, ironing and sometimes even wrestling. If we had an intern, this is what they’d do 😉
The next step is draping the muslin over the outline of the garment. You then pin the fabric together where the seams are going to be.
After you get all the pattern pieces connected you take them off, press them, and trace what you’ve made on to paper. From there you smooth out the edges of the pattern lines.
After making sure that the paper pattern matches up perfectly, you add the seam allowance. The most important part of all of this is testing a pattern before you make anything out of expensive fabric.
TADAAAAAA!!! Pattern Piece!
Check back for more peeks inside the studio! Happy Monday y’all 😉